Tracing Pattern & Adding Resist Lines
Note: Adding the resist lines is called the serti technique (pronounced
Painting The Silk
Silk Painting Instructions
Polymer Clay Scarf Rings
sare-tee in French), which means adding a liquid that outlines an
enclosure, so that the color will stay within the boundary created by the
resist lines. This same technique can be reffered to as simplified batik.
*Dye-Na-Flow paints will not cross over a resist line, as long as that
line is not broken and it will saturate right through to the
backside of the fabric.
1. Hand wash your silk in warm water with a mild fabric soap. While it's
still damp, iron flat on the correct setting (silk for silk, cotton for cotton).
2. Unless you are using a pre-stretched ready to use hoop with silk fabric
attached, secure silk scarf (or sarong) to a stretcher or wood frame
the claws will not harm the silk and the holes will close up when washed.
Note: The stretcher wood/frame also raises the farbic off of your work
surface so liquids don't stick or spread onto the surface or underside
of your silk. Any wood frame that has an inner opening at least 4"
larger all around your silk blank, will work.
The print ready full size "Two Fish", "Umbrella Rose" and "Owl
Sweethearts" pattern links are at the bottom of the page. *Please note that
these patterns are copyrighted, although I give you permission to
use them for projects to keep or give as gifts. You may not sell tangeble
items using these patterns, or electronically reproduce the patterns
by any process for sale. c Shirley Rufener 2012.
3. Print out a pattern or draw and place it under the silk (lines must be
solid black and easily seen through the silk). Slide a book or two under
the pattern to lift it up under your silk. Use a Fade Away or disappearing
marker to trace over all the resist lines. (Full size pattern links
are at the bottom of the page.
4. Note, one photo shows the girl owl and one the opposite direction
(boy owl). Carefully and slowly pour the Red Gold Resist into a small
plastic applicator bottle (the plastic tip can be removed by bending it
sideways and pullling it out). Press plastic tip back onto applicator bottle
and tightly screw on a .7 metal tip. Holding the applicator as you would a
pencil, squeeze out the liquid on paper to make sure it is flowing and
to allow any air bubble to pop. Then, apply resist lines right over the
marker lines. Work from the top left corner to the opposite bottom right
corner (switch this if left handed) so your hand doesn't touch wet resist
lines. Allow lines to dry or use a blow dryer at least 6" away from
fabric to speed the process.
5. Turn over the fabric and check to make sure that there are no broken
lines and reapply resist as needed. A broken line will allow a paint
color to bleed or spread into the next color section which is not desired.
1. Some people completely take apart a necktie and place on a stretcher frame
to paint it. The stiches are removed with a seam ripper and later sewn
back togehter. This is a bit of a challenge, so I decided to use an
easier technique. First, Hand wash and iron the tie (on the correct
fabric setting), as is. You will not remove any stitches.
2. Follow step 4 of "Adding Resist Lines" above.
3. There is no pattern for this technique. Just add clear resist lines
in a random 'scratchy' pattern a shown, at the same angel as the
bottom of the tie. Allow resisit to dry or bow dry.
*Umbrella Note: Jacquard cotton umbrellas are basically created more as a
parasol or decorative home item. Although, if sprayed with a silicon
and polymer coating, specifically for waterproofing cotton, it
could be used in the rain.
As heat setting is required for Dye-Na-Flow paints, this is not possible
on a cotton umbrella. You can set/fix the umbrella by adding Jacquard's
Artfix to the Dye-Na-Flow paints before painting. Use approximately 1
teaspoon of Artfix per quart of paint (or 3% by weight). Use mixture
within six hours! Use only in a well ventilated area and avoid skin
contact. Wash hands well with soap and water. Let
the paint completely cure.
1. Once the resist lines are completely dry (refer to "Tracing Pattern &
Adding Resist Lines"), start adding Dye-Na-Flow paint colors inside
the sections, by just touching the tip of the Sumi brush in the center
of a section of silk. The paints will only spread out to the resist
line (but only a little on cotton). For large areas, work quickly
painting the color from corner to corner. Always work wet on wet.
Never go over an area that has already dried!
Note: These serti sections of color can be blended (see Owl Scarf and
Two Fish Hoop), highlighted or accented with other colors. I often use a
color that is close to the origianl color on a color wheel, so the two
blend well together (see color wheel above). To add a less saturated,
lighter versin of a color, add a little water to the paint on a separatae
pallette or plastic lid, or you can paint over a (still wet) color
with white dye-Na-Flow.
2. When all sections are filled in, you can either paint the background now,
or if you are adding the salt technique to it (on "Two Fish" background),
wait until the painted sections are dry so the salt doesn't get into
the sections. Paint as before, trying to keep the color consistant,
again painting wet on wet. While still very wet, sprinkle Jacquard
Silk Salt (or corse kosher salt) over the areas. The salt will absorb the
color as it dries, leaving light halos of color. Leave the salt on the
fabric until it is completely dry. Brush
off and discard the salt.
3. Heat set the Dye-Na-Flow paints with a dry iron for 3 minutes on the
appropriate setting for your fabric. Heat setting is not possible on
the umbrella, please read the note above step 1 of "Silk Painting
Instructions" above called "Umbrella Note".
4. To wash out the 'CLEAR' resist (black and metallics are permanent),
use a soft scrub brush and Woolite or Synthrpol, scrubbing in a circle
motion until the raised lines are flat and the fabric is not sticky. The
lines will return to the silk color (usually white). Rinse fabric well.
5. To wash CLEAR resist lines from an umbrella, dip a soft scrub brush into
warm water with Synthrapol or Woolite added, and scrub off the resist lines.
Then rinse WELL with clean warm water, by squirting till fabric is
saturated (outdoors if sunny, or over a bath tub), to allow the water to run
down over the unbrella. Allow to dry in the sun. For fabrics, iron as needed.
Note: Umbrellas are recommended for decorative use only, unless they are
sprayed with a waterproof fabric sealer. If spraying, tape around all
exposed wood with masking tape, to protect it. When dry remove tape.
1. First, condition your clay while mixing the following colors shown in
photo. The top row of colors are just pre-mixed Premo! Sculpey colors
available from Polyform. Warm a 1/2" ball of color in your hand and
knead it until it is pliable. For the mixed colors, cut off portions as
listed in each color and mix together completely.
2. Roll each color into a log that is the same length. They may not be the
same thickness, which is fine. Lay them side-by-side in the order shown
in photo, and secure so they are stuck together in a row.
3. Using a roller tool, flatten the clay, vertically, to a pancake thickness.
4. Run the sheet once, through the clay conditioning machine, at the
thickest setting (or use a roller tool to thin to
1/8" thick keeping the thickness even).
5. Now fold the sheet from bottom edge to top edge, vertically, lining up
the colors so they are touching the same color. Run it through the machine
once again, at the thicknest setting (or use roller).
6. Repeat folding the bottom to the top and running the sheet through the
conditioning machine until the colors are blended a little between each one
(about 6-8 times), liining up the sheet colors evenly each time.
7. To create the round scarf ring, first open the ring to it's largest
diameter so the rounded end is flush with the opposite end (so
scarves fit through ring and wont snag). (As I have used Red Gold
permanent resist on my Owl Scarf I applied gold paint with a metallic pen
to all of the outside areas of the ring (not the inner ring) and alowed
the metal to dry.) Cut two, 1/4" wide slices off of the clay color
sheet of lime green/yellow and then of blue/puple blends.
8. Lay your color strips, good side down on your tile. Roll 2 thin ropes
of scrap clay and place one down the center of each clay strip. roll the
colored clay around the scarp clay to form a larger smooth rope.
Secure the yellow/green rope into the outer ring area of the scarf ring and
smooth ends together. Cover a 1/4" ball of scrap clay with a small circle of
blue/green from the color sheet. Roll into a smooth ball. Add TLS in the
center ring circle and press in ball securely. Set the blue/purple
strip aside for now.
9. Create a mold from your button by rolling a medium sized ball of scarp
clay int o a smooth ball, spriting it well with water and pressing a
button firmly into the clay. Pull button out right away, although
do it slowly, by the shank. Bake the mold and cool completley.
10. Form a 1/2" ball of scrap clay and secure a punched out a
pink/red/orange area using the large circle pendant as a
cutter. Use a needle tool to cut out the circle more precise and
carefully lift the clay that is AROUND the circle off and set it
carefully aside, in tact!
11. Press the scrap ball a little, then place the colored circle on top
and smooth out any air bubbles. form another ball of scrap clay and pinch
the top. Press your button clay down into a water spritzed mold. Hold the
pinched aera of scrap clay, press it onto the the top of clay in mold
firmly and pull out with a quick motion. Separate the two clay pieces.
12. Add a thin amount of liquid clay (TLS) inside the circle metal pendant
and carefully press the molded cabochon in the center. Dip your finger
in the Pearl Ex lid and rub it onto the raised designs of the clay.
Roll the blue/purple strip into a log and press it in place around
the cabochon. Smooth the ends where they meet.
13. Bake both jewelry pieces according to the package of the brand you are
using and allow clay to cool. Glue an 8mm gold jump ring to the bottom edge
of the ring as shown, allowing 1/3 of the jump ring to extend beyond the
scarf ring, using E6000. Keep the ring propped up (pressed into a soft
ball of raw scrap clay) until dry (several hours or overnight is best)
unless the top of the scarf ring is flat.
14. Attach the scarf ring and the pendant together with another 8mm gold
jump ring using pliers to open and close jump ring. A ring
tool can aid in this process.
Create the other two scarf rings shown in the same manner, placing
side-by-side stripes of colors for the square pendant and ring onto an
1/8" sheet of scrap clay. You will not use a clay mold. Instead, spritz
a detailed rubber stamp design with water and press it into the clay. Lift
away slowly. Do not add any Pearl Ex. Add to bezels. Bake as directed.
Once the stamped clay in the round or square rings are cool, add a few
dots of Lumiere 3-D paint to the clay, use a small flat brush to brush it
into all the indentations and immediately wipe off the excess paint with
a moist paper towel. This brings out the design details. I used Steel
3-D paint on the lavender/blue clay ring and Black paint on
the colorful bird scarf ring.
And two last style ideas for scarf rings:
For additional ideas on how to wear scarf rings, search the web!
1. It is fun and easy to create tie tacks. Roll a sheet of white clay
to 1/8" thick (thickest clay conditioning machine setting) and press
into a random lines mold or stamp with a similar design stamp. I used my
own custom clay mold made from a Stampmaker custom rubber stamp I made.
Clip off the two loops on the back of the bracelet link square with wire
cutters (on needle nose pliers) and gently place-do NOT press-
onto small square bezel on top and cut around the shape with a craft
knife. Do not add any inside bezel, just secure clay into bezel
carefully and bake as directed.
2. Use the tip of a craft knife to loosen the clay and pull it out of
bezel. Add a drop of Black 3-D Lumiere paint, use a small flat brush to
brush it into all the indentations and immediately wipe off the
excess paint with a moist paper towel. This brings out the design details.
Let the paint dry. Go around the edges of the clay with a large flat or
chisel tip black permanent marker. When dry, apply a layer of polymer clay
compatible gloss coating to seal and create a nice shine. Glue a flat pad
tie tack pin to the center back with E6000 and let dry flat overnight.
To create the umbrella charms, mix clay colors to match your umbrella
paint colors. I used a small 1" teardrop cutter to form 8 bases for the
charms, cutting with a sheet of clear wrap over the clay for rounded
edges (1st photo). Now create a rose push mold as described above
(see "Polymer Clay Scarf Rings step 9) and mold 8 single roses. Press a
silver 8mm jump ring near the top tip of the teardrops so they extend
1/3 beyond the clay tip.
Form about a 1/4" ball of clay and press into the small wide leaf in the
mold. Make 8 leaves total and press onto teardrop, so the tip just
curls over the rounded part of the teardrop. Add a rose over the bottom
area of jump ring (near tip of teardrop) and press in place. Add a few
dots of Pearl 3-D paint to each charm, use a small flat brush to brush paint
into the indentations and immediately wipe off the excess paint with a
moist paper towel.Allow paint to dry then attach to umbrella with an 8mm
jump ring that is secured to an 11mm jump ring that goes through the hole
in the umbrella wooden dowel end. Repeat for all charms.
Patterns for Silk Painting
Each pattern (except the umbrella rose) takes two printed copies as the
design is wider then 8 1/2". You will print each half, cut any excess
overlap on one side and then tape them together with Scotch tape.
I recommend using cardstock for patterns. Click on links
below for full size pattterns.
Painting The Silk
Silk Painting Instructions
Polymer Clay Scarf Rings